If you're looking to stop water from pooling on large paved, tarmacked, or concrete areas, you might be thinking about installing channel drains (also called linear or drainage channels) that connect to an underground drainage system. These are often a necessary requirement for driveways larger than 5 square meters, and they're both cost-effective and straightforward to install.
A channel drain offers a clean, organized, and relatively simple solution for managing water flow. However, unless it's installed properly, you might not achieve the results you're hoping for. Additionally, if you're not careful, you could inadvertently shift your water management issues to another location. To help you avoid these pitfalls, we've put together a detailed guide covering:
- What channel drains are and their common applications.
- The various components involved in a typical installation.
- A step-by-step process for installation.
- Essential dos and don'ts to keep in mind.
**Key Takeaways:**
- A channel drain is a long drain with a grate on one side that lets water in and carries it away.
- It should be connected to an underground drainage system through the outlet on the channel drain.
- Proper installation, as outlined in our guide, is crucial.
- The correct load rating must be chosen based on where the channel will be installed and the traffic it will endure.
Channel drains are sometimes referred to as linear or Aco drains, and chances are you've encountered them many times in the past 24 hours. They provide a discreet yet efficient underground drainage solution, used from small indoor spaces to large industrial settings.
Despite their sleek appearance, channel drains handle significant volumes of liquid. Their elongated shape provides substantial capacity, with a cross-section design that efficiently channels water from surrounding surfaces. Black plastic or composite channel drains are the most popular choices. Grates can be made from plastic, composite, or occasionally cast iron or stainless steel, sometimes formed as a single piece for added strength.
For home installations, a channel drain typically supports up to 5 tonnes with a 1.25-tonne point load, making it ideal for driveways, patios, and paving areas. Commercial versions often have higher load capacities, suitable for heavy-traffic environments like building entrances, car parks, and even airport runways.
Connecting a channel drain to an underground drainage system usually happens in one of two ways. If the underground drainage is at a lower level than the channel drain, you can use one of the three outlets provided in each section. These outlets are easy to cut and fit with 110mm drainage pipes. Alternatively, you can use an end outlet that connects the channel drain directly to the underground system at the end of the run.
Channel drains find applications in a wide range of settings. In homes, they are frequently used for driveways, patios, pavements, and conservatories. In commercial settings, their higher load tolerance makes them perfect for areas with heavy footfall or vehicle traffic, such as building entrances, pedestrian zones, car parks, and train platforms. They are also used in outdoor recreational areas like swimming pools, parks, and sports fields.
A standard channel drain installation generally includes six key components:
- **Drainage channel sections**: The primary component, typically supplied in 1-meter lengths with slotted ends for easy assembly. Each section has an outlet for connecting to a 110mm sewer pipe.
- **End outlets**: These allow the channel drain to connect to the underground system at the end of the installation.
- **Grating**: Made from PVC, composite, or stainless steel, the grating lies flush with the surrounding area, offering a slip-resistant surface while allowing access to the drain beneath.
- **End caps**: These seal off the highest end of the installation or specific sections.
- **Quad sections**: Allow up to four sections to connect at 90-degree angles, facilitating turns or T-junctions.
- **Sump units**: Optional but useful, they include a silt basket to prevent blockages and often come with a trap to eliminate odors from standing water.
These components are usually purchased separately, though some manufacturers, like Clark Drain, offer kits that typically include three 1-meter channel drains, an end cap, and an end outlet.
Installing a driveway channel drain can be broken down into 11 steps:
1. Begin by digging a trench deep enough for a 50mm layer of compacted sand at the bottom and wide enough for at least 100mm of concrete backfill on each side.
2. Attach a string line to indicate the finished height of the grate, which should be 2mm lower than the surrounding surface.
3. Ensure a 1:200 fall, with 5mm drop for every meter of channel drain.
4. Start installation at the lowest point, where the channel meets the drain, using complete sections first and cutting shorter pieces at the highest point.
5. Subsequent sections will lock into place using the connecting slots at the ends and quad connectors. Install with the grate in place for accurate height alignment.
6. Fit an end cap to the final section before placing it in the trench, ensuring it’s at the highest point.
7. Seal the locating grooves on each section with silicone sealant to enhance durability and leak resistance.
8. Use an end cap or preformed channel drain bottom molding to connect to the 110mm underground drainage.
9. Before pouring concrete, protect the grated sections with heavy-duty masking tape to prevent overflows.
10. Pour concrete to create a 2mm height difference above the grate.
11. Allow the concrete to cure for at least 72 hours before applying any pressure to the components.
**Do’s and Don’ts:**
- Always start at the point where the channel drain meets the drainage run or soakaway, as this ensures accurate placement.
- Ensure proper connection to a suitable drain or soakaway to avoid water accumulation elsewhere.
- Mask grates thoroughly to prevent concrete from obstructing the grate.
- Avoid directing water towards neighboring properties, as this could lead to disputes or legal issues.
- Never connect drainage to foul drains without written permission from the local authorities.
- Stay within the weight tolerance of your channel drainage system to prevent accidents or costly repairs.
When choosing the right products, prioritize quality materials that are durable and compliant with BS-EN1433 standards, carrying the British Kitemark Certification.
Understanding load ratings is essential for selecting the appropriate channel drainage. Here’s a breakdown:
- **A15 (15kN)**: Rated for 1.5 tons, suitable for pedestrian and cyclist areas only.
- **B125 (125kN)**: Suitable for footways, car parks, and driveways, commonly used with plastic or galvanized gratings.
- **C250 (250kN)**: Ideal for general parking areas and light commercial use.
- **D400 (400kN)**: Suitable for roads, carriageways, and areas with heavy road traffic.
- **E600 (600kN)**: Used in high-load areas like docks and aircraft pavements.
- **F900 (900kN)**: The strongest rating, capable of handling the weight of fully loaded aircraft.
Whether you're installing channel drains for personal or commercial purposes, following these guidelines will ensure your project is successful and compliant with safety standards.
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